To read the rest of this post go to Drapers on Line
Update:
Designers of New Couture do not copy other designers work - they have the ethics of a fine tailor; they are not like the typical dress maker who will copy a garment.
To read the rest of this post go to Drapers on Line
Update:
Designers of New Couture do not copy other designers work - they have the ethics of a fine tailor; they are not like the typical dress maker who will copy a garment.
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In case you forgot, this interview will remind you, why you really liked Victoria Beckham in the first place!
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Models go on castings on a daily basis, the rest of us make up artists, hair stylists, photographers and stylists go on appointments. It’s hard to make the time when you’re busy shooting but it’s important to meet new people and show your work. You’re basically going on mini interviews all day.

What’s great and not so great is that you might be running all over the city while going to appointments. So I generally use this opportunity to check out any cool shops or cafes. Near Dalston Station there are two Oxfams quite close to each other - one for clothing and then just a few doors down an Oxfam book shop. It’s huge and all the books are 99p!
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I had an interview this afternoon for Jincey Lumpkin - fashion lawyer and blogger. I met with her UK interviewer Simone Baret Innamorati in Selfridge’s for coffee. And of course after the interview we had to go and look at all the fabulous bags!

I love this bag, I could fit so much stuff into it!!

The silver bag on the top shelf left hand side is surprisingly soft!

Simone and I both hate fakes - now these bags are so fake and can’t be mistaken for anything but fake. I just find it so weird that the fakes are located right outside of Selfridges, and right inside, just wall between them, are all the luxury designer bags. It’s cruel in so many ways…
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I really enjoyed watching Wim Wenders’ film Notebook On Cities And Clothes (1989): the story follows Yohji Yamamoto in Paris and Tokyo as he prepares for his Paris fashion show. The second image is a picture that I took of the film on my television screen. It’s a shot of Yohji Yamamoto editing all his clothes for his fashion show. I loved how he lays all the clothes out to see how they look together; it just seems like such a better method then using a rail!
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All day I was looking forward to the fashion debate at the Design Museum, it’s part of the “Matthew Williamson 10 Years In Fashion” exhibition. The panel featured Alexandra Shulman, editor of British Vogue and Joseph Velosa, CEO of Matthew Williamson, and there was an additional guest Anna Garner, head of fashion at Selfridges.
This wasn’t really a fashion debate but more of a question-and-answer forum. Two fashion students had the opportunity to ask the questions. This was a good lecture for design students, as much of the focus was the business of fashion: the importance of a business plan, understanding your buyers and your relationship with the media.
The lecture was worth it just to listen to Alexandra Shulman speak about Vogue, advertising, designers and London Fashion Week. Years ago I did work experience at Vogue and I told Lucinda Chambers that I was amazed how friendly and helpful everyone was (I think I was expecting a Devil Wears Prada type of atmosphere), Lucinda said it was all because of Alexandra, that she sets the tone.
This is what I love about London: for £10 I can go and listen to one of the most influential women in British fashion and see the work of one of London’s top designers!
The exhibition is on until January 31st.
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It’s cold and grey outside so I’ve been forcing myself to look ahead and think of spring dresses! So of course Nicola de Main comes to mind. OK, so I do wear lots of black but I can imagine myself on a hot sunny day sitting at an outdoor cafe with an ice latte wearing a colourful girly dress.
Here is an excerpt from an interview that I did with Nicola De Main:
Tell us about your catwalk debut!
NdM: This season Spring/Summer 08 has been my London catwalk debut as part of London Fashion Week which has been amazing, the show was incredibly well received and we have been working extremely hard ever since just to keep up with demand. Prior to that I was invited to show in Budapest by the British Council representing London as a rising design talent, which was great experience being involved in such an incredibly high profile event which definitely contributed to our London show being such a big success …a little experience helped a lot.
Have you dressed anyone famous?
NdM:Yes I have worked with a few exciting names, I used to be a stylist before I started my own label and in this time I worked with a lot of high-profile bands, my personal highlight probably being Razorlight. The great thing about all of that was that I am still in touch with most of these people and their friends/girlfriends etc, so I am beginning to become a popular name in the music circles, which I’m really happy with because that is where I like to hang out too as a music lover.
Tell us about your fabrics.
NdM: I am keen that everything about the garment is exceptional and I feel that that starts with the fabric, you have to use high quality materials to get a luxury product, this really sets the label aside from others as you can tell the quality just by touching it. Wherever possible I like to use natural fabrics such as silk/cotton/linen and have recently been using bamboo; I feel it is the least I can do to be a responsible clothing manufacturer, bamboo in particular is a highly sustainable resource and does not require high levels of pesticides to grow which is a great thing to know that you are contributing to helping the environment…even in a small way.
Nicola de Main can be found in the UK, Italy, Sweden and Panama!
→ 1 CommentTags: Designers · Fashion · Interview · London Fashion Week

It’s just been announced that Hannah Marshall will receive a New Generation Sponsorship to show her autumn/winter 2008-9 collection at the London Fashion Week Exhibition!
I love Hannah’s work; in it’s simplicity it’s true luxury. You always feel great when you wear her dresses. Above is a picture of the silk chiffon trapeze dress from her lookbook, which was shot by Carlos Lumiere and styled by me. Hannah’s the type of person that you can’t help but adore. She’s not a jaded fashionista; she’s sweet, extremely hard working and
very funny.
I asked Hannah for a quote, and here it is!
I have been in business less than a year, so to receive recognition and support from the British Fashion Council is so exciting, and I am really looking forward to exhibiting as part of New Generation sponsored by TOPSHOP this February.
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An interview with Julie Bérubé
R: What is the name of your collection or last collection?
Bérubé: I don’t normally give names to my collections… I don’t know why! Maybe I will give the next one a name.
R: When did you graduate?
Bérubé: In 2000.
R: Are you working on a new collection?
Bérubé: Yes, S/S 08. I find it harder to work on a summer collection, I’m from Canada so winter stuff comes a lot easier to me! But I believe that working in season is less and less relevant somehow…
R: Where are you from?
Bérubé: From Montreal, Canada.
R: Are there any family members that inspired your work? An Aunty that sews etc?
Bérubé: I was born in the 70’s and my mom was into the back to earth movement. She did everything from scratch including sewing our clothes. So I’ve learned to sew when I was even too young to remember. One of my aunty’s did study fashion before me, she even completed fashion studies in Paris but never worked in the industry. And my dad’s mother was always dressed to the nines. I remember she had a black monkey fur hat which is the chicest thing I’ve ever seen. (it’s so un-PC!!) she was always wearing brooches on perfectly pressed silk blouses. She was far from being rich but she took really good care of her clothes.
R: Have you always wanted to have a fashion label?
Bérubé: Yes, I knew when I was studying that I wouldn’t be able to work for anyone else. I have problems with authority!
R: Has being a mother influenced or changes your work?
Bérubé: Not my creativity but the way I approach the business side of it. I’m much more focused because this business needs to work for my family. It’s not just about me having fun designing anymore.
R: What is your signature? Is there a specific fabric or print that you are known to use? Or a detail?
Bérubé: I’ve been addicted to pleats for a while! I love to work with big wooly felts for winter coats. I also love to play with leather.
R: What are some of your favourite colours, patterns, weights of material to work with?
Bérubé: I’m really into black and grey and the moment. Boring as it may sounds, I don’t fancy colours anymore. I love fabrics who move and drapes or are quite heavy. I love working with volume.
R: Who are your favorite designers that you look to for inspiration?
Bérubé: I’m quite inspired by Claire McCardell at the moment, there is a very modern feel to her designs. Balenciaga (Cristobal) is someone whose work I always go back to and Coco Chanel for her attitude and use of menswear fabrics into womenswear.
R: What outside aspects inspire your designs?
Bérubé: Everything, clouds, houses, holes in the pavement, food I cook.
R: What were some of the struggles you had to overcome when beginning the label?
Bérubé: Beginning is quite easy! It’s basically just a bit of madness and naivety. Now it is getting tougher… juggling cashflow, deliveries on time, pressure to produce good collections every season, getting the press interested…
R: Have you been featured in any publications, TV shows, etc…? If so, when/where?
Bérubé: I have some press coverage all through the year. We are in Vogue this September issue, hurray!
R: Do you wear your own clothing?
Bérubé: Absolutely!
R: What is the name of your current collection and why?
Bérubé: It hasn’t got a name! But the main inspiration is the female character in the film La Strada from Fellini.
R: Where is the collection currently sold and who are your dream stockists?
Bérubé: We are stocked in Rough Sleepers in London, Mix in Italy and Tanglewool in the US. My dream stockist would be to have my own boutique, but I’ve got my online boutique now so I’m happy. It’s working really well!
R: Which celebrities would you most like to see wearing your collection?
Bérubé: I don’t like this celebrity culture, I find the whole thing bland and empty and insignificant. There are so many amazing real women out there.
R: Do you remember your dreams?
Bérubé: Sometimes. I dream a lot about houses!
R: Do you eat breakfast?
Bérubé: Yes.
R: Do you have a pet?
Bérubé: No, I’ve been broken hearted by the lost of pets in the past and I don’t think I can deal with the sadness of losing one again.
R: When are you showing next?
Bérubé: I’m not showing on the catwalk this September but I will be exhibiting at On|Off. I want to take a season away from the catwalk to concentrate on making a small but perfectly cut collection. I also felt that the exhibition in the tents is very poor and I feel On|Off offers an environment that suits my collections better.
R: Favourite food, restaurant?
Bérubé: I love good hearty food like Turkish and Greek cuisine.
→ 1 CommentTags: Designers · Fashion · Interview
Interview London
Denim and Simon King
Are you
working on a new collection?
London Denim: Constantly,
although I do stop for coffee.
Where
are you from?
London Denim Suffolk: Ipswich in
hence the six fingers on each hand and webbed feet
Are there
any family members that inspired your work? An Aunty that sews etc?
London Denim: Yep my Nana
taught me to use a machine when I was about 9, but I would not say she inspires
my design, she was just a really great Nana.. My uncle Ian is an inspired
cabinet maker and I’m totally inspired by his dedication to perfection of his
pieces.
Have you
always wanted to have a fashion label?
London Denim: Yes, I like
both the control and vanity
What is
your signature? Is there a specific fabric or print that you are known to
use? Or a detail?
London Denim: On my jeans its
got to be my cut on the hip. With my T’s is large prints.
What are
some of your favorite colours, patterns, weights of material to work with?
London Denim: I don’t really
have a favorite colour but I do hate Yellow and Paisley
Who are
your favorite designers that you look to for inspiration?
London Denim: For my
customized collection it was Cartier, I’d seen a few of their 1920’s pieces at
the deco exhibition at the V&A last year and went bonkers for them.
Beautiful diamond birds, torcs and panthers. Galliano really is the ultimate
designers designer if I could be reborn it would be with his talent.
What
outside aspects inspire your designs?
London Denim: My customers
inspire much of my customization work. Because I work very closely with them on
one off pieces often I’ll follow a path which will lead to a small capsule of
something I would not have imagined without that close interaction.
What were
some of the struggles you had to overcome when beginning the label?
London Denim: Learning the
business, learning who I was as a designer. It all sounds really trite but
there are very few designers out there who’ve sprung out of Zeus’s head fully
formed.
Have you
been featured in any publications, TV shows, etc…? If so, when/where?
London Denim: All the normal
ones, BBC featured my customization work, with Fashion TV I did an interview at
my first Pret, Evening Standard and a few others. I’m lucky to have a good PR
and to be producing pieces which the press like so I’m getting quite a lot of
press on the collection at the moment.
Where is
the collection currently sold and who are you dream stockists?
London Denim: I really only
sell to Harrods and a few independents. The boutique at Babbington house would
be a great stockist, I’d deliver personally and pick up a massage at the
cowshed at the same time.
Which
celebrities would you most like to see wearing your collection?
London Denim: The ones I
fancy. I’m sure Hannibal Lector would say something about me feeling closer to
them as they’d be wearing my designs; Tracey Emin, Gwyneth Paltrow, Shilpa
Shetty, Marline Dietrich, Marilyn Monroe, Joan Collins,
Do you
remember your dreams?
London Denim: Always, I have
really great dreams every night. Adventures where I fly, save the world, find
the treasure, Move house….
Do you eat
breakfast?
London Denim: NO
When are
you showing next?
London Denim: I don’t have a
show I exhibit at London Fashion Week Exhibition.
Favourite
food, restaurant?
London Denim: Banners in
Crouch End. Not only is the food fab, the music’s normally chilled regee.
Where do
you like to shop?
London Denim: Depends what
for, for trainers I’d hunt all over till I got the right pair so that’s
normally Harrods or Harvey Nichols. Harrods have the best menswear staff in London,
they’re into you as the customer no into themselves as the living mannequin.
For everything else I just tend to wear cheap white tops, I go through them so
fast so it’s the sales and bulk buying.
Favourite
menswear place?
London Denim: My idea of
menswear heaven is Jeffery’s in meatpacking NY. The buyers are HOT. They really
know how to mix brands and don’t seem to be scared of trying out new brands.
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Worked with a super cool new fashion designer, William Tempest.
What is the name of your collection?
William Tempest: Noir Style… I was inspired by actresses such as Rita Hayworth and Katharine Hepburn, and played with the stereotypes that regularly feature in film noir movies, from the femme fatal to the private detective. The use of slats and straps in some of the garments references the use of harsh lighting, shadows and angles in the genre.
When did you graduate?
William Tempest: London College of Fashion - Womenswear July 2007

Are you working on a new collection?
William Tempest: At the moment I’m working in collaboration with
Diesel, where I have designed the new installations, window displays and
denim treatments for the launch of the new Kings Road store. When the project is finished I’m hoping to start work on some new ideas which I will be able to turn into a new collection.

Where are you from?
William Tempest:Cheshire, England
Are there any family members that inspired your work?
William Tempest: Thinking about it quite a few people in my family are creative. My Grandad Len used to love painting and his father worked with shoes. My Grandad Geoff is a structural engineer and produces amazing drawings in CAD and my sister is a florist. My grandma used to do lots of knitting for everyone. It’s good being able to create make
something from scratch.
What is your signature? Is there a specific fabric or print that you are known to use? Or a detail?
William Tempest: I love shape making and tailoring and mixing them together. I love working with beautiful wools, silks and leather and making fabrics act in unexpected ways.
Who are your favourite designers that you look to for inspiration?
William Tempest: Balenciaga and Lanvin
Where are you working now?
William Tempest: Giles Deacon and Diesel
Who are your dream stockists?
William Tempest: Libertys, Harvey Nichols, Browns, Independant Boutiques, Selfridges
Which celebrities would you most like to see wearing your collection?
William Tempest: Sienna Miller, Bjork
Do you remember your dreams?
William Tempest: Yes, quite often I wake up and can remember my dreams vividly, I often have really imaginative dreams sometime in bright colour. Sometimes I have dreams that I have dreamt before several years ago, or from when I was a child.
Do you eat breakfast?
William Tempest: Yes I always eat breakfast, usually toast and a glass of
orange juice
Do you have a pet?
William Tempest: I don’t have a pet now. But I used to have lots of pets when I was younger. I’ve had a few rabbits, guinea pigs, a budgerigar, fish and some dogs at one point. I really like macaw parrots though, it’s amazing they can speak.
Favourite food, restaurant?
William Tempest: I’m vegetarian but I like simple english food and also Italian pizza and pasta
Favourite places to shop
William Tempest:Dover Street Market, 59 Broadwick Street, Selfridges
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Interview with ½ of Day Dream Nation:
Jing Wong
360 Fashion:
I love the name Daydream Nation, how did you come up with it and what does it
mean to you and the label?
Daydream Nation: It was the name of Sonic Youth’s album, but it only struck me one day
when I read about a theatre director called Phelim who believed that society
has a ‘Racism against Daydreamers’. Being born in the rigid Hong Kong
education system that stifles creativity, we found it our mission to cultivate
a culture of imagination that links us back to the poetics of life, integral to
a society’s creative potential.
360 Fashion:
There seem to be a few sister and brother design duos out there. Do you enjoy working together? Do you think it gives you an advantage over
other design partnerships? Do you ever
fight?
Daydream Nation: It is a Love/Hate relationship. We know each other so well collaboration becomes economical; we know
each other’s strengths and weaknesses and we don’t have to explain things a
hundred times, but seeing your sibling all day at work and after work can be a
little too much. We can be as frank as
possible to each other (that’s a good thing) and we know whatever happens we
still love each other. And yes of course we fight,
but in a very civilized manner, so blood is spared…
360 Fashion:LondonUK
You’re from Hong Kong and spend a great deal of time there, but have a studio
in and consider yourselves a abel. How does that work?
Daydream Nation: London To be exact, we have finally based ourselves in Hong Kong as a Hong
Kong label for the economy of production, but we were both trained in London, so creatively we still feel very akin to the London spirit.
360 Fashion:
Have you always wanted to have a fashion label?
Daydream Nation: Kay always wanted a clothing label as far as I know, and I just want to
do my Visual-led performances. What we
are doing is neither fashion nor theatre. It is more like two people, two friends being really interested in
creating and neglecting the man-made definitions of different creative genres.
360 Fashion:
What is your signature? Is there a
specific fabric or print that you are known to use? Or a detail?
Daydream Nation: It depends on the story we are telling that season.
360 Fashion: What are some of your
favorite colors, patterns, weights of material to work with?
Daydream Nation: We are in love with creamy
colours and details made with a handmade touch, such as smocking.
360 Fashion:
Who are your favorite designers that you
look to for inspiration?
Daydream Nation: Hussein Chalayan, Victor & Rolf, Jessica Ogden
360 Fashion:
Which celebrities would you most like to
see wearing Daydream Nation?
Daydream Nation: Emily Simone, Joanna Newsom, Charlotte Gainsbourg, the sisters from
CocoRosie.
360 Fashion:
What outside aspects inspire your
designs?
Daydream Nation: Puppetry, dance, theatre, film, photos, music and the Sham Shui Po area
of Hong Kong .
360 Fashion:
What were some of the struggles you had
to overcome when beginning the label?
Daydream Nation: Finance, Accounting, Planning, Administration etc. In short, everything a kid
hates doing.
360 Fashion:
What is the name of your current
collection and why?
Daydream Nation: SS08 is called ‘Good Morning I’m Sleeping’. The state of daydreaming is ideal for seeing
seemingly dull things with new eyes.
360 Fashion:
Where is the collection currently sold
and who are you dream stockists?
Daydream Nation: Our AW07 collection will be stocked in Harvey Nichols, Hong Kong;
Labour of Love and the Old Curiosity Shop in London; Gallery Simone, Paris;
Goggle, Coppenhagen; 2 tul aura, Belgium; and Ants in my Pants, Madrid.Dover Street Market in London would be our dream
stockist. They did come to our show in
February. Now they just need to buy in
our collections!
360 Fashion:
Do you both daydream?
Daydream Nation: So far our lives have been a dream, too good to be true. So yes, I suppose.
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